| Exploded view of G/K43 + technical advices |
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| Use any information on this page at your own risk !! |
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| At the end it"s indicated if a Serial Number (S/N = complete number, s/n = two digits) or a WaA was used on the part (not consistently) |
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# 1: Handguard (Handschutz) # 2: Muzzle nut (Laufmutter) # 3: Sight hood (Kornschutz) # 4: Foresight (Korn) # 5: Bolt, stripped (Kammer) S/N WaA Bolt, complete (Schloß, Verschluß) # 6: Right locking lug (Stützklappe, rechte) s/n WaA # 7: Left locking lug (Stützklappe, linke) s/n WaA # 8: Extractor (Auszieher) s/n # 9: Extractor retainer (Auszieherbolzen) # 10: Extractor spring (Auszieherfeder) # 11: Firing pin housing (Verschlußstück, Schlagbolzensteuerstück) S/N WaA # 12: Retainer for firing pin extention (Bolzen zur Begrenzung) # 13: Firing pin (Schlagbolzen) WaA early ac # 14: Firing pin extention (Schlagstück) # 15: Recoil spring front (Schließfeder, vorne) # 16: Recoil spring guide, front (Führungsrohr) # 17: Recoil spring guide, rear (Führungsbolzen) # 18: Bolt housing retainer (Sperrscheibe für Schloßhülse, Schloßgehaüse) # 19: Recoil spring, rear (Schließfeder, hinten) # 20: Bolt hold open (Deckelsperre) # 21: Bolt hold open splint (Knoten für Deckelsperre) # 22: Bolt hold open spring (Feder für Deckelsperre) # 23: Bolt hold open pin (Stift für Deckelsperre) # 24: Bolt carrier (Verschlußdeckel) S/N WaA # 25: Sliding dust cover (Schutzshieber) # 26: Bolt housing (Schloßhülse, Schloßgehäuse) S/N WaA # 27: Safety retainer (Federring für Sicherung) # 28: Safety lever (Sicherungshebel) WaA early # 29: Safety plunger (S. Arrettierungsbolzen) # 30: Safety spring (Feder für Arrettierungsbolzen) # 31: Ejector pin (Bolzen für Auswerfer) # 32: Ejector spring with housing (Feder und Gehäuse für Auswerfer) # 33: Ejector (Auswerfer) # 34: Actuator rod spring (Feder für Stoßgestänge) # 35: Actuator rod (Stoßgestänge) WaA early # 36: Connecting rod (Verbindungsstange) # 37: Gas cylinder (Gaskolbenbuchse) S/N # 38: Gas piston (Gaskolben) WaA # 39: Magazine (Magazin) WaA Magazine housing (Magazingehäuse) WaA Magazine guide (Zubringer) Magazine spring (Zubringerfeder) Magazine floorplate (Magazinboden) # 40: Magazine catch (Magazinhalter) WaA # 41: Magazine catch spring (Feder für Magazinhalter) # 42: Magazine catch pin (Bolzen für Magazinhalter) # 43: Hammer spring (Schlagfeder) # 44: Hammer pin (Hammerhaltebolzen) # 45: Hammer washers (Distanzrollen) # 46: Hammer (Hammer) WaA # 47: Sear pin (Abzugsstangenbolzen) # 48: Sear spacers (Distanzrollen) # 49: Sear (Abzugsstange) # 50: Sear spring, trigger spring (Abzugsfeder) # 51: Trigger spacers (Distanzrollen) # 52: Trigger (Abzug) WaA # 53: Trigger pin (Haltebolzen für Abzug) # 54: Trigger adj. screw (Eichungsschraube für Abzug) # 55: Barrel (Lauf) WaA Receiver (Systemgehäuse) S/N WaA # 56: Cleaning rod (Putzstock) # 57: Front band (Oberring, Riemenbügel) Front band spring (Oberringhaltefeder) # 58: Stock (Schaft) S/N WaA (not late ac 45) Crosslug (Zapfenlager) # 59: Triggerguard (Abzugsbügel) # 60: Triggerguard screw (Systemhalteschraube) Front sight base (Kornsockel) WaA Gas cylinder sleeve (Gaskolbenhalter) WaA Gas cylinder sleeve pin (Stift für Gaskolbenhalter) Rear sight ramp (Visierkurvenschiene) Rear sight leaf + slide (Visierklappe + Schieber) WaA Rear sight spring (Visierfeder) Buttplate with trapdoor (Kolbenkappe) Bolt catch - activated by the magazine (Kammerfang) |
| Disassembly and assembly of the G/K43 |
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Make sure the rifle is unloaded and safety in the
safe position (facing up or right hand side). Remove the magazine
from the rifle by depressing the magazine catch button and pulling
down and forward on the magazine. Remove cleaning rod if
present. If the rifle has a sling loosen it up a few inches. Now depress the front band spring, and slide the front band forward. You will now be able to remove the handguard. Pull back on the charging handle all the way to the rear, turn the safety lever to the right side and depress the hold open lever on the right side of the bolt carrier. At the rear of the receiver is a button (just above the safety) depress the button, and the bolt assembly will pull upwards and out of the receiver starting with the rear part of the bolt assembly. *Note: if you have a late Walther gun, there may not be a hold open catch. Pull the bolt assembly to the rear, and depress the takedown button, but beware! the parts are under spring tension, and will fly everywhere if you do not keep both hands firmly on them, and always protect your face! Now with the bolt in both hands cupped firmly, depress the hold open catch. The recoil springs will push the bolt open and you can now easily disassemble everything by hand. The recoil guide assembly and rear recoil spring can be easily disassembled, or cleaned and oiled as a unit. Turn the rifle over. There are two screws which hold the trigger guard in place. They have four notches in them that catch spring loaded pressure pins in the trigger guard. Depress the pins with a small punch while loosening the screws. Once you have removed the screws, pull forward on the magazine catch to release the trigger guard. Now the stock will slide off of the action. To remove operating rod components: Push the actuator rod rearwards to give clearance to remove the small connecting rod. Now slide the actuator rod and spring forwards and outwards. The gas cylinder can now slide rearward and off. The gas piston can be removed with a small crescent wrench. I would not recommend further disassembly of front or rear sights and trigger assembly unless absolutely necessary to remove broken or otherwise unusable parts. Cleaning and oiling of these parts can be done in place. Once you have cleaned and oiled the parts: Insert the firing pin into the firing pin housing. (long semi rectangular shaped piece). Insert firing pin extension (small tapered rod with a notch in the thinner area) fat end first into the firing pin housing. (note: there is a small retaining pin in the rear of the firing pin housing that seats in the firing pin extension recess) Insert the complete firing pin assembly into the bolt. Bolt will have elliptical cut out in front facing up, as will firing pin housing. Insert left and right locking flaps into bolt (this may take some practice to get right) and slide firing pin extension all the way in. Note: locking flaps are not reversible. the right side flap has a groove on the bottom which corresponds to a bulge in the right side lug bolt channel Insert long recoil spring into rear of bolt, seated on top of firing pin extension. Insert complete rear (small) recoil spring assembly into stamped sheet-metal bolt housing so that take down pin pokes out the top rear hole and other two pins poke out the side rear holes. Insert bolt carrier (handle) foot at the front into the elliptical cutout in the bolt making sure it seats also in the elliptical cutout in the firing pin extension. Now slide the front recoil spring onto the rod assembly that is holding the rear recoil spring in the stamped housing. You will begin to experience tension. Align the bolt carrier to slide back over the recesses for it in the stamped housing. Continue to pull it back under tension as far as it will go- to the rear of the housing. Now, with the assembly all the way back, engage the hold open catch on the rear of the bolt. This should hold everything into place. Making sure the safety is turned to the right (the hammer must be cocked first), slide the bolt assembly front end first into the receiver until it "seats itself." simply depress the takedown button, and it will drop the rest of the way in and lock. Now reassemble the rest of the rifle in the exact reverse order of disassembly. (Credits to K98k Mauser Page) |
| Assembly of the small parts in the lower receiver. |
| Start from the front and move backwards. It helps to use slave pins and 3 - 5 thumbs. The hammer washers shall turn the concave (open) side inwards. |
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| How to check the headspace |
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Step #1: Unload the
weapon. How to change the barrel
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| Is is safe to shoot a G/K43 ? |
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Many authors of gun books
tell it's dangerous to shoot such a "piece of sheet metal". It's
true the outside finish of these rifles isn't too good but the
quality of the steel is high. Some have heard of an exploded G/K43.
I have heard the same about a new Garand with a failure in the
receiver. It exploded and the soldier was seriously wounded. My
father was in the resistence movement during the war, and one day
he bent the barrel of his US carbine in a door opening. He returned
to the door and bent the barrel back!! Such things would never
happen to a German gun. When I get a G43 I always follow these steps: Step #1: Check the headspace. Step #2: Renew the recoil springs. Step #3: Use Rob Applegates special designed gas cylinder (Apfeltor Waffenfabrik) - see picture below. And drill two holes in the gas cylinder. Take a look at another page of the website: Different G41 and G43 parts Step #4: Use only good quality fodder for your rifle. Don't use ammo if you don't know what it is. For instance has "Bordwaffen-Munition" (for use in MG17 in airplanes - has a green ring around the projectile) a much higher velocity and pressure, and it's dangerous to use in a rifle. I don't like late war phosphated ammo because the cases corrode from the inside and often crack. Step #5: Examine carefully all parts. Oil if necessary. I think you will have a good time at the shooting range if you follow these advices. |
| Your G43 is shooting full automatically! |
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Not a pleasant surprise. The reasons could be following: 1: The sear pin and other pivot pins are able to slip out to one side because of excessive clearance between the receiver and the stock. This can rather easily happen because of the thin receiver walls. Note if this is the case you will feel the trigger moves abnormally. The cure could be thick tape over the pin holes in the side of the receiver to prevent them for working loose. 2: "Slam fire" because of too fierce a recoil or if the firing pin is stuck or jammed. Note that there will be a small dent in the primer when the cartridge is chambered - a courtesy of the free-floating firing-pin. This dent can possibly be so deep that a soft civilian primer ignites. 3: The hammer spring isn't seated correctly or the trigger set screw is misadjusted so that when the hammer comes back it isn't catching any sear or the disconnector. |
| Apfeltor Waffenfabrik |
| Sells gascylinders + "a shooters kit" = it's possible to regulate the gas pressure. |
| click |
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